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Dear knitters, today I'd like to introduce you to a modular knitting pattern called Kateřina Chocholáčová. This modular knitting is convenient, knit small squares, who is not bored or afraid of a big project. This is a great start, modular knitting is also good for working leftover wool, but of course you can also use completely new wool, either patterned like this or solid colour, there are many possibilities. Today we'll learn how to knit and join the squares. Here in this sample you can see four kinds of squares knitted in four different ways. This is the basic one, the one used most often. This is a garter stitch, meaning that you knit in and out. The square is exactly the same from the wrong side as from the RS. This is often used for blankets, the blanket looks the same on both sides. It's so neat, nice. This is the second way, where the garter stitch is combined with stockinette stitch. I like this one best, of course it's up to each person what they choose. This way is stockinette, that is, smooth there and turn back. You can see that the square gets a little bit bigger. Here it distorts the pattern a bit, but if you want to see the transitions in the yarn again, you can choose this way from the other side. Then it's actually a reversal from the other side. The fourth square here is a combination of the knit and purl methods or options. There are, of course, a plethora of options for squares. You can do cast on stitches, eyelet patterns, knit various Norwegian patterns, flowers, etc. But the very basic is this square and this way of knitting. I then worked this whole pattern in garter stitch, for the reason that this stockinette stitch, for example, even now is twisting. You can see that it's doing a little bit on the sheet, but if we hadn't used the hemming, the square would have twisted to the wrong side. It would make a roll, it wouldn't be neat. We need to finish the work a little bit to make it neat. These squares are braided together, not sewn together. Stitching is an option, of course, but the problem is that then the product doesn't stay this beautifully flexible. And it's better, if we want to keep the elasticity, to glue the squares together. I've deliberately left these cancourses here, which are of course then sewn together. I left them there so that you can see that the pattern is knitted together. That is, I started, cast on this square, knitted this square first, knitted this square to it, knitted this, this, this. Then I cast on for the purl, and then I purled gradually until I ended up with this end. That is, I didn't cut the yarn here at all. There's also the advantage that if you did each square separately and then sewed them together, you'd get a lot of cancourt that you'd have to fasten off. Even if you fasten it nicely, it always happens that after you wash it, it sticks out somewhere and you have to fix it. This is the easiest way. Now let's move on to knitting the square itself. The squares are all knit the same. 41 stitches are cast on. 41 stitches because there are 20 stitches on one side, one stitch in the middle, and the other 20 stitches are here. It is then knitted in such a way that on every other row we knit the 3 middle stitches together. And that will gradually make the piece smaller. Then we decrease with the last three stitches on the needles, we knit them together and we have a square. Then we'll work another square in the edge stitches. So now I'm going to cast on 41 stitches. In this case, to speed things up, I cast on half the number of stitches, only 21 stitches. One, two, three, four, five. I'm gonna slow it down a little bit so you can see. So I'm gonna wrap the yarn on my left index finger, holding two needles. I use two needles to give a flexible edge. If I cast on with one needle, it would all be pretty tight, the edge wouldn't be flexible enough, and it would be hard to poke the first row afterwards. If we have very thick needles, like nines, tens, we can cast on only one needle. For these thinner ones, definitely always on both needles. So now we've got five stitches, I'm going to thread the left index finger, like this, thumb, and now I'm going to prick from the bottom. Of course there are more ways to cast on, I use this one. I think the edge is quite neat then, casting on is easy. Now the middle stitch and the next ten. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten. I always knit on circular needles, even flat work not just in the round, you can of course knit on any needles, either long or these smaller tiny projects can be knit very well on sock needles. These are shorter, easier to handle. So, now I'm going to knit smoothly. I always knit the first edge stitch, and slip the last edge stitch. After turning the work over, I knit the first stitch again and slip the last stitch without knitting. The reason for this is so that the edge stitches extend over two rows. Firstly, they will give us a nice edge, neat, and secondly, it will be good to pick up the next square. So one, two, knit in stockinette stitch, knit. I'm not adding or subtracting anything yet, I'm just reknitting. I'm slipping the last stitch, so I'll put the yarn in front of the work and just slip it like that, don't knit. I'll turn the work over and knit the first stitch again. And now, and watch out, I've missed a stitch here, so I'll put it back in. I'll knit the row again. If you miss a stitch, of course that can happen, you can miss a few rows, never be afraid. Relax, it's very easy to fix. In the next lessons we will be aware of how to catch that eye and how to stretch it back again so that everything is fine, nothing is visible. Okay, we've knitted back, we've taken the last stitch off again. We got the yarn in front of the work, stitch taken off. I'll turn the work. Okay, and now I'm going to knit the stitches. First stitch, second, third, fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh, eighth, ninth. Now three stitches in a row. Of course, there are several ways to weave the middle three stitches. I'm just going to pick up three stitches and knit them, but you can choose any other method, or you can leave the middle stitch knitted loosely, always knitting two from the right and two from the left. We'll cover how to braid the stitches in later lessons, but this is the easiest way. That is, I don't pick up three stitches and just knit them this way. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine. This way I weave back in smoothly. We've got a pattern mixed up here. Of course, blankets can be knitted in solid yarns, as I'm knitting now. You can combine more colours, they can be knitted with coloured yarns like the one in the sample. This particular one is a sock yarn from Schoppel-wolle. This is a small German company, a dye and spin company, that makes very fancy beautiful yarns where they go from one shade to another like this. It can be used, of course, not only for blankets, but also for sweaters, hats and so on. So, now I've knit less, that is, 8 stitches, 2, 4, 6, 8. I'll knit 3 stitches again. Pick up, knit and knit another 8 stitches to finish. Again, be careful not to knit the last stitch, but slip without knitting off the yarn before working. In reverse quotes, because the pattern looks the same on both sides of course, so just knit, don't pick up stitches, just knit, go back to the beginning. In this way you make a square out of the rectangle. Modular knitting is very convenient for beginners who don't dare to do bigger projects, but not only for those. Of course, it's again something different than simple plain knitting. So, here we have 2, 4, 6, 7 stitches, knit 3 again. I like modular knitting a lot, I knit sweaters and sweatshirts for kids, hats, you can knit gloves this way too. You can use modular knitting for the base of a glove, for example, and then you can knit the toe or the top of the glove and the thumb, or you can also knit the fingers. There are a lot of uses for these, and we'll certainly be looking at them, because it's my favourite way of knitting. So, now I'm only going to have 6 stitches, 3 medium stitches. You can see that the piece is gradually turning into a square. Of course, you can make the pieces as big as you like. Very often we use the size that we see in the green and blue pattern, which is 20 stitches, but we can choose to make the parts bigger, or we can even combine the size of the parts on the project. It will then show up nicely on the sweater we're going to show. So it's still unknitted, it's not finished yet, but I'm combining the size of the squares there. It's a bit of an interesting use. Anyone who doesn't like regularity will like it. The yarn that's on the pattern is sock yarn, as I said. The composition of that yarn is 75% wool, pure staple 25% polyamide. That's a classic sock yarn composition. It's probably the most advantageous that it can be. These socks are very warm, they're not sweaty because the wool sucks very well underneath. The wool is also antibacterial, which means that your feet don't smell in socks made from this yarn. And the polyamide is there so that the sock doesn't get soaked through, it's to reinforce the wool. It's also very convenient for projects of this type, because of course if you use a blanket or any product a lot, or if children play on the blanket, you need to make sure that the product is washable and maintainable. If we were to knit the blanket from pure staple wool that does not have a superwash treatment, which means that it can shrink and flatten, then we have to be very careful with the care of the product. Whereas if it's made of sock yarn, the big advantage is that the yarn usually has a superwash treatment, which means that we can wash it in the washing machine up to 40°C. The wool already has a special treatment so that it doesn't shrink, so that it doesn't pilling, so that it doesn't wrinkle, and then it's very easy to maintain. So, we're slowly coming to the end. The classic length of sock yarn is 420 metres per 100g of yarn. Most often, of course, the length of the sock yarn can vary from one manufacturer to another, but that's usually 420 m. If you're knitting socks, I recommend a 2.5mm needle size if you normally tighten, but if you're knitting a project like this, it's better to use 3.5mm so that the blanket or the pieces aren't too tight, they're then hard and not as nice. When we come to the end, we have the last three stitches on the needle, I knit those three stitches like this, that means I have one stitch left, like this. So now I'm going to cast on the next square right to this one, that is, I've got one stitch and now you can see the edge stitches here that were created by just working over those two rows, it was the slipped stitch, so now I'm going to use them as the basis for the next square, which means we've got one eye, we're going to poke the second eye here, so the third eye, we're going to poke here, you see, in this hole here, the fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh, eighth, ninth, tenth and eleventh is the centre one. So, now we've got eleven okay, two, four, six, eight, ten, wait, wrong, two, four, six, eight, eleven, yes. And now we need the other ten, that means we're going to pitch them again, the same way it's a little bit more complicated to do it when we don't have that other cancourek to pitch it, but it's easy too. So, here we'll thread, we'll set up the thumb like this too, and now this way we have to hold the eye a little bit, tighten it carefully and not completely, so that we can then poke in there and pick up the eye. So I wrap it around like this again, put the thumb underneath and that's it. So, two, you can see that the tightening is a little bit tricky, but it can be done, we have to go slower. Third stitch, fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh, eighth. Ninth, tenth, so. Now it looks like this, and we're gonna go back to a smooth weave. I didn't get it right this time, so again. The first row's always a bit of a skeleton, the next ones will go better. So. And then you get a chain on the back of it, quite neat, nice. You can only pick up one thread from the edge stitches, not both. And it looks a little different again. I want you to try it out to see which variant you like better, which result you like better. So, now nine stitches, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine. I'll take three again, online. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine. Now, in this way, I can gradually add square after square. If I'm at the end of a row and I've got, say, 10 squares and I want to start making another row of those squares, I can use the king stitch pick-up again, picking up, but from the other side of the purl. We'll show that next time. Or we can separate the yarn and start again. Okay, he's got too much here, two, four, six, eight, one, back. Knit three. Now, this way, work another square one by one.
Translated from English to English by artificial intelligence. If you find errors in the text, please accept my apologies
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