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So, now we've zoomed in a bit, I hope you'll get a nice view of the knitting. And we're going to start knitting the second piece, which means we're going to start working out the pattern here, expanding it, and continuing with the triangle shawl. So, as we already know, we always start a triangular shawl with three knit stitches. Cast on and now cast on one, two, three, four, five stitches. And now we're going to knit two stitches together from left to right, that is, I'm going to cast on, so that I can knit together from left to right into one stitch this way. Now I'm going to knit the eight cast on stitches here, three, four, five, six, seven, eight. And again, two stitches, this time from right to left by pulling through. Knit a stitch, knit a stitch, and knit a stitch and pull it through. Now one, two, three, four stitches, we are in the middle, so I cast on, cast on the middle stitch, again four stitches, one, two, three, four. So, now we're going to do the same thing on the left side as we do on the right side, so we're going to knit two stitches from left to right, knit eight cast ons and knit right to left. Slip, knit, purl, one, two, three, four, five, cast on and knit one, two and three with yarn before working. So, I knit the first three stitches together and now I'm purling the whole shawl. That's me with the needles clinking against the backing. I chose not circular needles this time, but Flexi-bel needles from Addi, which are a replacement for straight needles. Of course, I'm knocking due to knitting over the hard backing here, which of course is going to get me stuck, but you won't be knocking if you've got that knitting in your lap. It's kind of a replacement for straight circular needles, of course, also, who doesn't like circular needle rope, needs to have two needles, so this is kind of a hybrid, something in between circular. So, now one, two and the last one off. So always with a triangular shawl, you knit the edge in garter stitch, that is, knit three stitches there and knit three stitches back, so again, knit the first three stitches. Cast on every row from RS again, cast on four stitches to make the triangle one at the edge, one at the left edge and two in the middle. So, now again, one, two, three, four, five, and again we'll knit this way from left to right. Again, knit the eight cast-on stitches, cast on and work from right to left. I've done it now by simple knitting, which is of course possible in my case if I'm knitting and I have the English stitch and I'm knitting simple purls. You guys who have a complex purl, a classic purl and you're knitting a classic knit, you have to knit by purling as I showed in the previous row. Now turn four stitches to the edge, yarn over, yarn over, one, two, three, four stitches, and again I'm going to knit from left to right. Now I'm going to knit the eight stitches again and knit from right to left. I'm going to do the overstitching again to repeat, one, two, three, four, five, yarn over, one, two, decrease. If we look at it now, you can see that I'm unraveling this way. This is the first unraveling here. So, now we're here, we're going to rewind one more time. So I'd like to come back while I'm reweaving here, so I'll tell you a little bit more about the material. Of course, you can use this pattern on any triangular scarf. It doesn't really matter what kind of ending you make, I made a simple one with holes, but you can knit some lace at the end, or crochet some lace, or finish it with an elastic snap, two stitches knit and two stitches purl, that looks very nice too, I've tried that on one. But in any case, I would recommend using a material that would allow the scarf to be turned off and that would hold the beautiful pattern. It's a material that should be either wool, merino wool, alpaca, or possibly even silk or cotton. So cotton is probably the worst option of the ones I've named, but it's still a good option. In any case, don't use artificial fibers like acrylic, polyacrylic and so on, because in such a scarf then your neck steams, sweats, but on the contrary it doesn't warm at all, so again I repeat use natural yarns. I have knitted this scarf here in a beautiful, beautifully coloured yarn, but it is 50% acrylic, 50% cotton and the pattern is not quite optimal, it doesn't stay off as beautifully as if I were knitting in merino, for example. So it's not that it's bad, it's beautiful and will be very suitable for spring and autumn. It's an airy shawl, it's got those holes quite big and the cotton does suck out some moisture, it's not like knitting with 100% acrylic, which I definitely want to discourage you from doing because that would be very unnecessary work. It would not be a functional scarf and could cause health problems. I would point out all the time that the fact that it is written on acrylic that it is antibacterial, for example, or antifungal, or that it is anti-allergenic, for example, is all true if you are only looking at the acrylic. Of course, no bacteria will live in that acrylic and no mold will thrive in that acrylic because there's nothing for it to eat because it's just plastic. But your skin, which is steamy under that scarf, which is much wetter than if it had natural material on it, then those bacteria, those eczema form there, then those fungi like to live there, so just under acrylic and under polyamide and under 100% artificial material your skin suffers a lot and you are setting yourself up for big problems in the future. So let's go back to natural materials or at least blends. Of course, the main advantage of man-made materials is their low price, but our work, we value it and let's knit really from quality stuff, so that such a scarf will last us simply for years, ideally decades, and of course it will be functional and warm. So again, we have reached and now we will expand one last time without any more. So k3, k1, k2tog, k3, k4, k5, repeat this over and over and knit two stitches, from left to right knit 8 stitches and be warned, I cast on a stitch here by mistake and completely automatically. We've got the 8 stitches, and the weave in, and that's just wrong, that's not where the yarn over belongs, that yarn over belongs in the middle. I'm gonna solve this by just dropping the stitch. I mean, it's going to make the yarn longer, but it's going to get lost and spread out. So I'm going to knit from right to left. This has happened to me a few times in the course of this knitting, but it can be figured out because the cast on stitch is just visible in the pattern, it has no business being there at the moment. So, 1, 2, 3, 4, cast on before center, cast on behind center, 1, 2, 3, 4, knit two stitches from left to right. If you're knitting in a classical knitting pattern, you won't have to struggle like this here and just knit. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. You see, I'm still counting, even though I know the pattern, I'm now knitting from right to left. So I'm always checking those stitch counts, maybe I wouldn't even figure out the wrong stitch if I cast on, 1, 2, 3, if I wasn't constantly chanting like that in my head of course when I'm knitting, maybe I wouldn't even figure out the mistake because I'm already knitting the pattern automatically I don't need the pattern and knit three stitches. So I recommend checking yourself all the time. Always always watch from a distance, I now as I finish the row I'm going to lay out the pattern, put it on the cable and look at the pattern to check that everything is right. You always need to make that check because you can see a mistake even with the naked eye, which you can still go back to if we're maybe 2 or 3 rows away from it, but if we're 40 rows away from that mistake, it's just there. And then if we turn the scarf off and one or two errors don't seem to matter, you can be 100% sure that you'll just see it there. Especially experienced knitters, of course, they always find mistakes in their work and when you know about it, then you have a little tendency to tell everyone, which is not really necessary, because few people will see it, except you, who then unnecessarily blame your work. Now I look at it, you see that the hole is beautifully open. And you see, I knit in 100% merino, and even without any unpicking, the hole is open like this. Now I'm gonna take another look at our pattern here. This first one here, this first one here, and now 1, 2, 3, 4, I would still have it, 1, 2, 3, so one more row after all, because we have 8 stitches and we have to have 8 rows as well. So even as we were casting on those 8 stitches in that hole, we should now have 8 rows in the height here too, which we don't have just 2, 4, 6 rows. So once again, just to reiterate, I'm going to turn you off for a second, so I don't waste it, and then I'll come back to you. So, now we have 6 rows knitted here over the cast on before the cast on hole. Likewise, here in these two places, where we're going to have the cast on stitch again, here in these places, we're going to cross those stitches again now. So we're going to repeat what we learned in part one. Okay, start. 1, 2, 3 stitches. Cast on. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 stitches, not 4 this time, but 5 of my own. And now I should cross these two stitches. I'll give myself a needle for the work and the favors. I'll leave one stitch out, the first one. I'll needle up to the second knitting for the work. Now I'm gonna go back to the stitch on the left knitting needle and I'm gonna pull them both down and I'm gonna have those stitches crossed from right to left. Three, four, five, six, seven, eight. I'll cross again. Right needle for work, skip one stitch, pick up the other. Knit behind the work. Knit a stitch from the left needle, pull both stitches down. We've crossed. One, two, three, four, yarn over, yarn over. One, two, three, four. Cross again. I'm working on the second stitch. Knit a stitch on the left needle, knit both. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight. And cross, so look behind the work of the right needle. I'm skipping the first stitch, poking the second stitch, knitting. I knit the stitch on the left needle, pull both stitches down. One, two, three, four, five, cast on. One, two, three. Now I'm going to knit the whole thing back together, and on the next row from RS, we're going to cast on eight stitches in one. One, two, three, knit. And I'm going to work all the way around. If anybody thinks I'm knitting fast, which I really am, because these are what my friend used to call dead spots when there was an uninteresting movie and we were watching, when he took the remote and the control and flipped 30 minutes long ago on video, saying that's a dead spot. So with the movie it wasn't a big deal, but here in this case the web just flips. Anyone who happens to be a beginner and is not clear on how to purl, is a beginner and yet has taken the plunge and started this one can find my knitting and crochet school, the first parts, how to knit, how to purl, how to cast on, how to cast off, learn all the basics there and then they can come back to us for the last one, knit three, purl the last one, or knit two, purl the third one. So we're back. So I have crossed stitches here and here. I'm going to cast on this hole between the crossed stitches. Smooth, smooth, smooth, smooth cast on. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven. And here I see, and now I've done it back, so seven, six, I'm going back. I have to weave these from left to right, I forgot. So, left to right, I've got two stitches in one. Now I'm going to pick up the eight stitches again in this one, as we learned in the first part. Left needle, second stitch, third, fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh and eighth. We cast on eight stitches. Those who have not seen well will now go back to the first piece, and now knit two stitches from right to left by pulling through. I'm knitting the threads, and I have to be careful to pick up all the threads so that I don't have those unsightly stitches. So, now I'm knitting, one, two, three, four, five, six, and I'm knitting two stitches from left to right, and I'll pick up again here. One, two, three, four, five from the front, six from the back, seven from the front and eight from the back. Now from right to left, knit two stitches and knit one, two, three, four. Yarn over in front of centre, centre, yarn over behind centre. One, two, three, four. Now, see, I've got a cast on here, here and here. Now the other half of the shawl, which is of course exactly the same, that is, two stitches knit left to right. Here, I'm going to help myself into this one stitch with my left needle, hold that stitch, second stitch from the back, third from the front, fourth from the back, fifth from the front, sixth from the back, seventh from the front, and eighth from the back. All right, we're all set. And now from right to left, weave in by pulling, like this. One, two, three, four, five, six. Not eight this time, but six. Now, weave two stitches from left to right. I'll pick up first, second, third, fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh, eighth again, and now slip, knit, slip, pull through. And one, two, three, four, five, cast on, one, two, slip. Now, let's see it again. So we have here, big eye here, here and here. Except for that, one, two, three, four extra cast on to widen the scarf. Now, I'm going to come back. Only purl, except the edge ones of course, that is, one, two, three edge plain and now all purl, even the cast on. All the turns, even the eight. Even though they appear to be smooth this time, we're going to redo them all just the reversals. All of them. The whole shawl until the last three stitches on the row. The two stitches before the edge stitch will be knit. Now, we're just making sure that some of the stitches appear to be knit, but we're going to knit them all over anyway. All purls. All right, we'll be there in a minute. I'm only purling, I'm knitting over, the back rows in this case are only for knitting over. There will be no pattern, no increases, no increases, no cast ons, no braiding. I always just purl the reverse row. I will have three knit stitches on the right and left edges only. This is to help us, and we're already there, so knit, knit, purl. That's so that the shawl doesn't twist then, it wouldn't give us that little roll here at the edge, because we could knit to the edge, of course, but then the roll would be unsightly. So, now we've cast on these eight stitches here, and now we're going to show you how to knit again. Then it's always going to repeat from there. We're learning the beginning, the three knits. We cast on one, two, three, four, five. Again, from left to right, knit two stitches. So, now we've got one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight over the cast on. Right to left, knit two stitches. And here we're starting to taper off into that leaf, so that was eight, then it was six, and now one, two, three, four stitches only over that hole, the one before. You can see that here, well, I've already ripped it off like this, but then there was a little bit of a sucker here because I didn't pick up one of the stitches. So, again, left to right, weave in two stitches. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight stitches. And from right to left, knit and purl. One, two, three, four, cast on, cast on. The middle stitch of course I keep knitting the knit, nothing changes there, it looks the same, you see, the middle stitch and around it cast on, cast on. So, now from left to right again, again eight stitches, one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight and from right to left over the hole only four stitches. On the next row there will be only two stitches. And from left to right over this fresh cast on, eight, one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight and right to left in one. Now cast on two, three, four, five stitches towards the edge. One, two, three.
Translated from English to English by artificial intelligence. If you find errors in the text, please accept my apologies
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